Mikel López Iturriaga: gastronomy as a way of feeling at home
An interview with the food journalist about small kitchens, traditional recipes and why traffic noise is his red line
Mikel López Iturriaga is a food journalist, creator and director of El Comidista — El País's food section since 2010 — and author of several books, the latest being «Cocina de aquí para gente de hoy» (Salamandra, 2024). He arrived in gastronomy via a winding path: he studied Hispanic Philology, did a master's in journalism, and worked in music and digital journalism before ending up writing about food. Since then, he has spent years being one of the best-loved voices for rescuing traditional Spanish recipes and presenting them to a new audience. We have asked him to tell us about his home: what it smells like, what it sounds like, what he refuses to compromise on, and what he would buy tomorrow if he could.
What is the first word that comes to mind when you think of home?
I was going to say security or peace, but to be honest the word is sofa. Lying on the sofa is an activity to which I dedicate «a lot of effort».
What smell or sound makes you feel instantly at home?
The smell of onions sweating in the pan. It's the starting point of many of my dishes, and also the smell I associate with feeling safe, calm and at ease in my own home.
What is your non-negotiable factor when choosing a place to live?
Let it be quiet. I couldn't live on a street with a lot of car noise and traffic; if I had no other choice I would, but given the choice, I prefer to stay out of that.
A great plan at home always includes...
Food, to the surprise of nobody. Good dishes, good starters, good drinks. Nothing too complicated or overly fancy, just tasty things that brighten your day.
What song have you had on repeat at home lately?
I don't usually listen to songs on loop — I try to pace myself — but right now I'm hooked on this one What Was That, from Lorde's latest album.
Which object in your house would you say is very you? Why do you identify with it?
My latest book, Local food for today's people —and that's how I put the promotional token in—, and a little figure of Greta, the transvestite gremlin: very gay, really good deep down and very sexy, just like me.
If you could buy yourself anything right now for your home, what would it be?
The flat next door, to make myself a giant kitchen. The one I have now is getting a bit too small for me.
How do you imagine the home of the future?
My optimistic self pictures it more technologically advanced than the current one, but welcoming, comfortable and pretty. My pessimistic self, on the other hand, fears a house so minimalist that the kitchen has practically disappeared, which is a real drama.
Tell us about yourself and your work. Where did your vocation come from?
I studied Spanish Language and Literature and ended up in journalism almost by chance, when someone told me about a master’s degree at *El País*. Gastronomy came later, after a spell of unemployment, when I saw an opportunity to do something different in a field that had already interested me.
«Little calling, but in the end I’ve found a discipline within journalism that I like and really enjoy.
What do you find most satisfying about your work?
Two things. Firstly, discovering traditional Spanish recipes that are little known outside their place of origin and introducing them to a younger or wider audience — the driving force behind my latest book. The other is when someone tells me they’ve cooked one of my dishes, or discovered a restaurant or a product thanks to me, and they’ve enjoyed it. That really gives me a great sense of satisfaction.
What inspires you?
Cookbooks, by authors big and small, new and old. Also social media which, despite having many bad things and being quite atrocious and malignant, hides a good side: they allow one to discover the work of many people, and there is some very good cooking if you know where to look. For articles and reports, on the other hand, I draw on a variety of readings: the internet, books, the press...
Favourite colour, book and film – in that order!
